After years of travelling to Venice, staying everywhere, from boutique hotels on quaint squares to suites on the canals, I finally found a hotel that I love, and this delightful little spot is by far my favourite hotel in Venice.
The enchantment with Madama Garden Retreat began the moment we were invited through the main gate, which sits next to the much-loved Ponte Chiodo. But the entrance is nondescript with little but a plaque with the hotel’s name to suggest what lay beyond the high walls.
Inside, an idyllic garden, the envy of passers-by, envelopes a divine little sanctuary in Cannaregio. The garden is coloured with violet wisteria and lemon trees bulging with plump fruit hanging over the canal, overlooking the hotel’s gated jetty and the bridge: Ponte della Misericordia, on which, more than once, we caught envious passersby staring into the garden, wondering how to steal a glass of Spritz. But all for nought, the garden is for guest use only and, as such, provides a delightful little escape that feels personal, private and secluded (yet visible) in busy Venice.
The Rooms at Madama Garden Retreat hotel
We stayed in the Grand Suite Garden View, which is more an apartment than a room, with a delightful sitting area enveloped by emerald green fabrics and a cosy view of the gardens through long windows draped in heavy curtains that effortlessly subdue that heavy Venetian sun. The bedroom is large and finished in dark colours, with a stunning contemporary four-poster bed, comfortable and romantic, and the bathroom is chicly finished in contrasting glass and metallics. There’s another version of this room with fabulous views directly onto the canal and the passing gondolas, which, unfortunately, was booked during our stay.
Services and Amenities at the Madama Garden Retreat
The Madama Garden Retreat’s amenities are basic, but that’s what this little hotel is all about. It’s not a sprawling palazzo but rather an enviable residence on the bank of a canal that makes guests feel at home in a city almost always heaving with tourists. It’s a place to breathe and watch the boats whizz by with a glass of wine in hand.
The service too is exceptional. The Madama (the owner) is ever-present with just one or two other staff, well-turned out, running errands and ensuring Aperol spritzes flow side by side with charcuterie platters, best eaten amongst the garden’s fine, aromatic flora. Breakfasts and lunches can be ordered in advance and are served in the garden, too, when the sun is out, and the little jetty makes for easy access to water taxis should you want to travel to or from the airport in true Venetian style.
Staying here, we wanted for very little, using it as a reclusive home away from home, often making our way through the gate (lookup and you’ll get your first glimpse of the wisteria blossoms) after dinner as a stream of fellow tourists attempted to get a peak at the verdant idyll to which we were escaping.
Where Is The Madama Garden retreat?
We adored this little corner of Cannaregio. It’s filled with little eateries (including the brilliant Il Paradiso Perduto, which serves its creamy Cacio e Pepe directly from a Parmesan wheel), cocktail bars, and cafes. It feels like a creative enclave, vibrant in the evenings and far enough away from the tourist hordes to mostly cater to locals and holidaying Italians who know better than to stay anywhere near St Marco. But it’s. It is within walking distance of Rialto and several Vaparetto stops.
Impressively, the Madama Garden Retreat hotel is one of few hotels in Venice boasting a straight 10* or 5* rating on its various online listings.
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